I had planned to get up around 10am today to get some pattern stuff done. Unfortunately, I didn't actually get up until 2pm and I felt icky when I did get up. My sinuses are full, my head hurts, lights are too bright and sounds too loud, and I feel really tired, light-headed, and sick. I suppose I could have allergies or a migraine or something, but I could also be coming down with a cold or flu or something instead. I hope it's only allergies. I've bought some sinus stuff, some advil liqui-gels in case it's a migraine, and some tylenol. One of those should help.
I'm working on the first vintage pattern - I'm able to grade the patterns up just fine, but I'm having trouble applying my height changes to the pattern. It has a kimono sleeve so the sleeve is cut in one with the bodice. Normally I take out 14mm at the half-way point of the armscye and 10mm out of the top of the sleeve cap (this change can be applied to the underarm seam if the sleeve cap is flat). Plus I need to move the shoulder point in by 1/2" - this matters because the bottom of the sleeve has buttons on it and the sleeve will be too long if I don't take the excess out of the shoulder.
So anyways, I'm not quite sure now to apply the above changes. I thought about taking out the horizontal 14mm and dropping the underarm by 4mm, but the shoulder change has me stumped. I think I can just take out the 1/2" on a line running from the top of the sleeve to the underarm seam. I'm not sure that this will give me the right results, though.
If you've done these kinds of pattern changes before or otherwise have an idea about how to make these changes, I'd love to hear about it. My thick head is having trouble figuring stuff out and it's getting overwhelmed easily by loud sounds or bright lights.
This preview of a book should help. See pages 62 and 63. Make sure to keep the line of the sleeve the same as it was originally after the adjustment is make. (the top of the sleeve is just an extension of the shoulder line ) http://books.google.ca/books?id=1gSsXUEIJwIC&pg=PA62&lpg=PA62&dq=shoulder+adjustment+kimono+sleeve&source=web&ots=s0vucjd9xU&sig=zIgpmbgHVyk-ljBQZXf_tP2Ckuo&hl=en#PPA63,M1
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