Not your average movies

Last night we watched Triloquist, a movie about a woman, her mute brother, and a ventriloquist's dummy who can talk on his own. They go on a crazy killing spree as they make their way to Las Vegas. The characters - the woman especially - sort of reminded me of the characters in The Devil's Rejects; they're crazy and they do things that make no sense to anyone but them. We enjoyed this movie as it had an unusual premise and it is funny in places. If you like movies of this type, you'll probably like this one.

Today we watched Yo Yo Girl Cop, a Japanese movie about a girl who becomes a yo-yo bearing cop that infiltrates a local school to find out what's going on. We'd expected something sort of light and funny and instead got a darker movie. Still, the movie was pretty good. It seemed to be part of a larger franchise because some things that were said seemed like the audience was supposed to have recognized them. We were right: it's a long-running TV, movie, and manga series. If we had all of them here I'd watch them, so you can take that to mean that we liked it :)

When we weren't watching movies, I managed to get the hand-sewing finished on my dress. Now I just have to sew the hem. I can't believe I'm almost done! It's getting to the point that I'm sick of looking at the dress. I won't have a chance to wear it anytime soon as it's going to be quite cool for the next few days.

We also went for a big long walk today, to the market, then the mall, then the Chapters, and finally home. Of course I ended up with a bit of a sunburn - oops. The walk was great, though. The day was perfect: not too hot and not too cold, with a bit of a breeze.

Games night fun

We got to play games with our friends tonight to celebrate one of them being back in town. It was a lot of fun - we played Alhambra with one of the extensions (Wechselstube) and For Sale. I hadn't played For Sale before and I enjoyed it very much. It's fast-moving and easy to understand so everyone could play right away without too much of a learning curve.

I also got to do some sewing today - I've attached the collar and have pinned the neck facing in place. Once I sew that, all I have to do is sew the buttonholes and hem it and it's done. whoo hoo!

Tomorrow I'm the lucky recipient of a CT scan for my head. Remember I fell back in July and gave myself a concussion that took me about two weeks to recover from? My oncologist suggested that it would be good to be sure that I didn't actually do any damage to my head so we're doing a scan tomorrow. I'm actually glad that we're doing this because I've been a little worried about the length of time it took me to recover from the concussion. I'm probably just being a bit of a hypochondriac but I'd rather be sure that there's nothing bad going on in my head.

More staying home with more sewing

I ended up doing more sewing today. I could have gone to our friend's cottage with Ian this afternoon but I wasn't really up for going anywhere. I feel pretty good, overall, but I'm still a bit tired. I am feeling stronger each day, at least.

After all my talk about leaving the side darts alone on my dress, I did wind up moving the the dart point 1/4" down. It looks so much better than it did before! I probably could have moved it down a little bit more but it's fine the way it is. I mostly worked on the collar pieces. It fits the neck quite well but it's not quite big enough at the bottom. I need to open up the collar at those pivot points to make sure that it fits better. At least I didn't try to sew the collar on with the actual collar fabric :)

I don't know what we're going to do tomorrow. It's not a special day for me, really, because I'm home all the time - but Ian is home because tomorrow is a holiday for him (and almost everyone out there!) I think it's supposed to be nice tomorrow, at least.

A full sewing day

I actually got up at a decent hour and managed to get some sewing done. I've drafted the armhole facings and attached them; they look good! I'm finally pleased with the armholes; they're the area that I've had the most trouble with on this pattern. I also managed to draft the neck facings and re-draft the collar but I haven't attached them yet.

Of course I'll baste a trial collar on first because I don't have much of that contrast fabric. The collar is basically traced off of the neckline but it's not a direct trace; there are two pivot points on each of the front and back neck (and at the shoulder) where the collar is turned. This means that the collar neckline is shaped a bit differently even though the neck measurements are the same as the dress. This is probably so that the collar will drape properly over the shoulder. Anyways, I made sure that my collar also had those pivot points in approximately the same locations.

The only thing I might have changed on this dress is that the side bust dart is a little high. I would like the point to be about 1/4 or 3/8" lower, although I'm not sure that many other people will notice this. I'm not going to go back and change this now.

The pattern calls for taffeta interfacing and I actually managed to pick some up in a gorgeous blush colour; it is 60" wide and it was 75% off. Yeah, it's polyester, but that's ok. The dress is cotton, after all; it's not like I'm making a couture gown out of rare materials, after all. I usually use fusible interfacing for my projects but it almost always bubbles up after a few washes, even though I pretreat it. So this time, I thought I would go with a sew-in interfacing. I couldn't really find anything else cheap that had the same weight and drape as the taffeta, so I went with the taffeta. If I had silk organza I'd use that but I don't have any (yet).

I'm kind of hoping to finish the dress this weekend. I've pre-washed all my fall fabrics and I'm itching to make stuff with them :)

Dare I say that I'm better?

I think I'm finally feeling better because I'm hardly coughing at all. I did manage to get some sewing done today - yay! The dress I've been working on for forever is really almost done. Really! :) I've actually sewn - and serged - the major seams! Now I just need to trace new facings and a new collar piece and put the buttons and buttonholes on and it'll be done. I'm very much looking forward to finishing this project so that I can start the next one.

I've bought a lovely selection of menwear-type plaids and fabric and I really want to make some more fall-type dresses in preparation for the cooler weather. Of course it's been a cool summer and so the dress I've been working on (which is sleeveless) might not even be worn for a while. Anyways, I looked over my patterns and fabrics and am trying to figure out what to make. Doesn't this sound like a fun way to spend a long weekend?

We just finished watching Damages in a marathon viewing of fourteen episodes over three days. We loved the show in part because there was a lot of puzzle-solving and whatnot; the story was multi-faceted and unfolded in pieces. The only trouble was that our recordings missed the last couple of minutes on every episode so some things weren't totally clear. And now we're arguing over who tried to kill Ellen - I remember one thing and Ian remembers another but we don't have the recordings anymore. We might just have to buy the DVD. And you should, too, because it is a great, suspenseful show. Apparently they've committed to two more seasons and I'm very much looking forward to watching it going forward.

Fabric shopping

The Fabricland store in nearby Cambridge is closing and all of their fabrics are 60% or 75% off the regular price. I went there today and brought back quite a fabric haul :) I bought three different plaid/menswear-type fabrics and some other great fabrics. Between everything I have, I should have enough for fall/winter clothes. Mostly, anyways :)

I still want this beautiful red poly/rayon/spandex crepe fabric - it looks fantastic and the colour is awesome, but it's $19/m and even at 20% off (which it is this weekend) I can't quite justify buying it. Interestingly, there's also a wool crepe at twice the price, but I don't like the feel, drape, or colour of the wool compared to the other.

I'm also very interested in some fabrics by Robert Kaufman. I love love love the babycord fabrics in the Cool Cords line. There's an apple print that I can find in turquoise and pink; I think I might like the turquoise one a little bit better. There are a number of new patterns in this line due in September and I might see if I can get some then. If I could afford Liberty babycord I'd get that instead :)

I also love the Robert Kaufman GreenStyle Panda prints made of 60% cotton/40% bamboo. I love the white print on black but the green or yellow on white are also beautiful! I'm thinking that I'd love to get some of that and make it up into something. They're hard to resist, aren't they?

No sewing but lots of Olympics

I thought about sewing today but it's been raining and it's humid and dreary. Since I had the oophorectomy in October, 2006, my body has changed. I sweat more when it's hot and I get warm more easily, which are expected changes, but I also sweat more when it's cold and damp. That was not a change that I expected, but as a result of it, working downstairs in the basement can be unpleasant on days like today. So no sewing for me today.

Instead, I sorted my vintage patterns (while watching Olympics!). It turns out that I have around 90 or 95 vintage patterns which seems like a lot. Most are from the 50s and 60s. If I were to sell them, I think I could easily get about $5-10 for each one and I know I didn't pay that much for them. Some of them are worth much more than that and could get at least $20; others (like the 1950's German Simplicity patterns and British Simplicity pattern) should go for more than that. Once I sort through all of my contemporary patterns I'll be thinking of selling some of them off as well. I don't expect to get much for them but then I bought most of them on sale anyways.

Having made the decision that I will sell a bunch of patterns at some point, I'm thinking about the best way to actually sell them. I could open a second etsy shop (but I don't really want to do that), or I could open a shop somewhere else, or I could sell them on eBay individually or in groups, or I could approach one of the major sellers and sell them the lot.

I don't know what would be easiest for me. Thinking about it, I want to use some of the patterns and so probably wouldn't be able to sell all of them at once, unless I wait to sell them for a while. I could get rid of a bunch at once, though. I'm sort of hesitant to open up a shop somewhere because I don't really want to turn this pattern-selling into a business; it's more like a de-stash for me, and I don't want to have to be buying patterns to try to sell them. So I'm probably going to have to go the eBay (or another auction site) route. Blerg. I've never sold anything on eBay.

Today in Olympic coverage we watched some more water polo, some boxing (the poor Canadian guy was trounced), some judo (we don't understand the scoring system at all), some rowing, the women's road race, the US-China basketball game, and tonight we're watching swimming. I like the rowing quite a lot; in some ways it's similar to dragonboating. I think I'd actually enjoy rowing a lot more than paddling, and even though I'm unlikely to get a chance to really try it, I very much enjoy watching it. I find myself moving in the same sort of rhythm as they are, which is kind of odd :) The women's road race was amazing to watch and not just for the scenery - it rained heavily once they hit the mountains. I can't imagine riding in the weather they had.

One thing that I really do like about the Olympics in Beijing are the buildings they built for the event, especially the Birds Nest Stadium and the Water Cube. I love how both are buildings and have function and all of that but at the same time both are very organic. I like that they're not just boxes, and I think that we're not likely to see that kind of architecture in other places. I do hope that when new venues are needed, the architects will look at incorporating organic elements like these buildings do.

More Olympics and sewing

Ok, so I'm still working on the great dress with the collar... I'm almost finished adjustments. After making pattern adjustments, I sewed some seams together and basted others and made yet a few more adjustments. It's almost perfect now, except that there's a little bit extra that I need to put into the side dart and I need to change it's point a little bit. I basted that dart and that part of the side seam several times already today :) It really is just about done and then I can retrace the facings and figure out what the collar pattern looks like now, after my new changes.

When this dress is done I think I'm going to use the pattern as sort of a base pattern for some of the other, similar, dresses that I want to make. I'd rather not go through this kind of fitting again :)

We watched more Olympics today. We got to watch men's gymnastics and some of the swimming. Kyle Shewfelt's performance was beautiful, especially given that he had broken both knees last year. And watching Michael Phelps shatter the freestyle 400m world record was amazing! The commentary for the swimming was hilarious - we could swear the guy kept giving the swimmer's heights as 5point6inches and not 5feet6inches. Maybe the events in Beijing are occurring on a much smaller scale than we think they are. After all, doing everything in 10th scale would certainly be cheaper once you figure out how to shrink the competitors and spectators.

We also watched some beach volleyball and a very little bit of equestrian and water polo. We would have watched more water polo if it had been on but equestrian just isn't our sport. This equestrian wasn't even the jumping one and we thought it was much less interesting watching the horses walk (and occasionally canter) around the field. More Olympics tomorrow.

A new way of grading for me

We saw The Dark Knight today. It was quite good although I don't think I'd see it twice in the theater (as I've heard some people are doing). Heath Ledger does a fine, crazy Joker and the movie itself is compelling. I'd recommend that you see it if you haven't yet.

I have pretty well finished grading and altering this pattern and I'm going to be making it next. I have some bias-printed pink/red gingham and we found some red for the collar today. I think it's going to be awesome when it's done - at least, I hope so :)

When I finish this one, I have another pattern that I want to prepare because I've already decided which fabrics to use. The pattern is similar to the other one (which is fine, because I think that the silhouette is fairly flattering on me): it's a sheath dress with princess lines and flap pockets at the hips with a large collar. I'm going to use some black on cream alphabet fabric for the body and black for the collar, flaps, and on the princess seams. It'll also be awesome, I think.

I'm still learning how vintage patterns fit me and how to change them so each project is a bit of an experiment. I was just grading the patterns up but that doesn't really work. Even if the pattern is exactly my size - and some are - my proportions are quite different than bodies used to be. Yes, I'm short, but people were shorter back then. Also, ease amounts were quite different than they are today and I like a little bit less ease, except at the waist, where I like a bit more. So what ends up happening is that I can't just increase the pattern by x amount everywhere; another way of putting it is I can't just grade the pattern. Instead, I have a slightly different approach to making the pattern fit.

First, I have to measure the pattern bust, waist, and hips to see how much to add to each to get the measurements + ease that I want. The amount to add is usually different for each of these primary points. So I do that, and then I have to make the neck to the high bust area (or, the neck to the top of the shoulder blades in the back) narrower. I almost always re-position and shorten the bust darts a bit - I don't have the cone-shaped breasts that they had then, and their bust darts are almost always too far apart for my taste. That usually takes care of the circumference measurements, although if the pattern is very fitted through the waist and hip I'll make sure that I've increased the high hip area a bit.

With the circumference measurements done, I check the vertical measurements. First I measure the pattern bodice front and back and compare that to my measurements. I decrease the entire front bodice by the difference in measurements, if there is any - sometimes there isn't. Sometimes I even have to increase the measurements, if the original pattern is very different from my size. If the change is small, I make it between the underarm and waist, and if it's large I do 1/3 of it above the underarm and 2/3 below it. I remove about 1/2" at the center back bodice waist for my swayback and take the rest of the vertical difference out as for the front bodice.

After that I just have to change the skirt length. I've been shortening the patterns from their original mid-calf length (a singularly unflattering skirt length for almost everyone) to around the knee, so I've got to take out that as well as the usual amount to shorten for my height. To make these changes, I do a combination of just chopping off some of the length at the bottom and folding out the difference. Because I'm short, it's better if I chop at least part of a full skirt at the bottom so that the bottom skirt circumference isn't too big. If the bottom skirt circumference is anything over about 80" or so and I'm using cotton, the skirt will be too big. With straight skirts it doesn't matter where the length comes off, but I have to make sure that walking vents/pleats are long enough when I'm done.

By this time I'm usually tired of making pattern changes, but I'm not done yet: I actually pin-fit the pattern. Yes, I tape the darts shut (and clip them if I have to) and pin the seams together on the seam allowance. Then I tape the waist center front and back to my center front and back and try to tape the front and back neck to the appropriate places. This is by no means perfect but it shows when I've got WAY too much ease somewhere. It also shows if I've retained the original pattern proportions after all of my changes.

Then I get to sew!

BTW, I have done one version of the walk-away dress and I'm mostly happy with it but I didn't take enough out of the center front and back so I'm going to play with the pattern a bit. Also, I want to re-shape some curves. I have some great fabric and binding for this next attempt, too :)

Leaving tomorrow

Early tomorrow morning, we're leaving for our vacation. Did I spend the day doing anything useful? No :) I worked on that dress. I'm completely finished except for sewing in the buttons and I'm quite pleased with the result. I had to make some modifications and I think it fits pretty well now. The hardest part of making the dress was sewing all of that seam binding. I hadn't really worked with it before and it took a little while for me to figure out how to make sure that it didn't torque.

The hardest part of sewing the seam binding was sewing it over the button tab extensions at the waist. It's quite a sharp curve and I didn't want to have to pleat the seam binding. I figured out that I have to streeetch the seam binding over the curve, and I also ended up basting the stretched outside curve in place as well as the inside curve. I'm really proud of the final result. No pictures yet but I hope to have some up soon :)

I am bringing my laptop with me on vacation but I don't think our room itself will have internet access; the nearby convention center has it for free and I'll probably use that. This means that I might not post every day or possibly at all. We'll be back Sunday afternoon and I'll definitely post then.

Working on a walk-away dress

I decided that I wanted to try and finish this walk-away dress before we leave on Tuesday (you might remember that I prefer this one over the Butterick one). The pattern grading was a little tricky for this pattern because instead of having front and back pieces, each of the three pieces is the front and back combined. The back bodice, for example, wraps around the front and so has to be graded on the front, too. Similarly, the front panel wraps partially around to the back and the back parts have to be graded, too. And the overskirt piece is for the front and back (there's a seam at center back and it's open at the front).

I think (well, I hope) that I've figured out how much I need to shorten the vintage patterns. I've also realized that my shoulders are narrow in comparison to the rest of my torso - at least at my current weight and in vintage patterns. It isn't just that the length of my shoulders is short, which is what I thought was going on, but I was also finding that the neckline was gaping a lot in the front and back.

I actually pin-fit the front panel and back bodice to me before I cut it out so I hope I have actually got things right. I'm using a fabric with a bit of stretch so a small problem won't show. We'll see how this pattern comes out. Once I get the pieces together I have to bind all of the edges and if there are any problems I can probably piece something together :) I did think about putting some pockets in the front overskir but I won't do that for this version.... maybe next time :)

Many, many hours of sleep

Grief does funny things to a person. The fact that I was so tired yesterday - I hadn't slept well the night before and I didn't have a nap - plus the fact that Lotus is gone meant that I slept the day away. Yes, the tranquilizers I took might have had something to do with it, but I'm glad that I slept so long. My body and mind obviously needed it.

I got my big batch of patterns in today. The person threw in 5 extra patterns! They're in pretty good shape, too, and one of them is my size. I'm pretty thrilled with the selection. There are three patterns that have envelopes that are falling apart but the pattern pieces are ok. There are also a couple of muu muu patterns that I'm not going to make up :)

I need to find a way to store patterns. Given that they're paper, I'm thinking that they should be stored in an acid-free environment. I'll have to look into how to do this best.

Pattern treasures

What an awesome pattern! It's from 1956; I bought it a little while ago and it arrived today. When I first saw it I swooned over its darts, front placket, and collar. I love its "wiggle dress" shape with the princess lines and little bit of flounce in the back. I can't wait to trace this out and alter it for me.

One of the reasons that I love vintage patterns so much is that they come from times past. They offer a glimpse into the lives of other people in that time. I love the idea that someone carefully chose the pattern and made it up and then kept it. I love the smell of the old paper. I treasure any writing on the pattern as it's a peek into the mind of the seamstress who made it up.

The pattern above was very carefully cut out. The seamstress cut some seams out with pinking shears because I suppose she knew that she was going to finish those seams that way. I never thought of cutting the pattern out with pinking shears; I've only ever pinked the seams afterwards. The seamstress must have been a bit tall as she had to lengthen it above the waist. To do that, she very neatly slashed the pattern along the printed lines and ruler provided and taped newspaper to the slashed edges.

Yes, this pattern includes strips of newspaper from 1956! What a treasure! I wonder who this woman was and whether she liked the dress she made. Did she get compliments? Did she look as sexy in it as the picture? Did she feel pretty in it? When did she wear it? I very much hope she loved the dress as she clearly put a lot of work into cutting it out. I'm honoured to have this pattern and hope to make it with the same love and care that its first owner did.

So much sewing, so little time

I'm almost finished a second vintage dress and I'm thrilled with it. I decided to put a full lining in this one (although I'm still putting facings around the neck because the lining doesn't stabilize the neck enough). Mainly, I put the lining in because the fabric showed the seams too much and the lining prevents that to some extent. I have to finish the facing, tack down the lining to critical points, and hem it.

We're going away the week after next to the IJA convention (juggling in Lexington, KY - this should be fun!) and I want to have all of the things I'm working on ready for that. I'd like to make at least one more dress before we go - hopefully that'll work out :) I have enough fabrics and patterns that I can make almost anything I could want to :)

More and more patterns

I managed to win an eBay auction for about 20 patterns from the 50s and 60s. There was one pattern (a Butterick 4 yard line pattern) in there and about five or six more that I would have like to have, so I think the purchase is justified. The auction was pretty tense at the end - I put my winning bid in in the last six seconds and the automatic bids took it a bit higher than I thought they would. Ian was concerned that I might have the start of an eBay bidding problem because I was so excited about winning. I don't know - it's the first time I've bid on something down to the wire like that and it was exciting.

I will have to think about selling off some of those patterns (not ALL of them are winners for me) as well as some of the other, newer patterns I have.

I have finished altering the pattern that arrived yesterday. It turned out that the pattern had 6 1/2" of ease on the bust and since I was only going to grade the bust up 2", I didn't bother doing that - 4 1/2" is plenty of ease there for me. I stalled when deciding which fabric I want to use for it, though. A lightweight one, like my bugs on mottled pink? Or a white eyelet? Or something with some stretch, like the white stripes on red? Or the turquoise graphic pattern? I'll re-evaluate tomorrow and hopefully be able to get it mostly done.

A very, very happy day

I saw my oncologist today. As we knew, my test results are very good. It turns out that there are some tiny, tiny sclerotic lesions on my left pelvic bone that showed up on the CT 6 months ago as well, but we looked at the latest CT scan and didn't see anything. So if there is anything there, it's so tiny that it's hardly worth mentioning. Also, the lesions are sclerotic, which my oncologist says means that the bone is being built up by the bisphosphonate. We agreed to not worry about the lesions we couldn't see. And of course we also know that the bone scan was clear.

I asked my oncologist about the rash I'd had but she didn't know of any weird interaction between fentanyl and Pamidronate. She was going to check with the pharmacist whether there's any known interaction there. I see my family doctor this week and I'll talk to him about it, too.

One of the things that I said to my oncologist was that I've been stable on one treatment for two years and that I figured I would have a "good run" - meaning that I expect to live for a while yet. I know that past performance doesn't predict future performance, but with only one bone affected, chances are good that I'll be around for a while. My oncologist agreed!!!!!! Whoo hoo!!!!



I know I haven't talked about this much here, but I'm still thinking of returning to work. I'm feeling so much better and so much more on the ball - I feel like I really get things again!!!! - and I'm worried that that I will get bored sewing and making jewelry all day. I can feel the itch to do more and to be working again, and when I think about it I'm excited, not scared. So I talked my oncologist about the possibility of returning to work and she fully supports the idea; she said that she has patients that work if they want to. She also said that if it turns out that it's too much for me at any time, she'd write a note saying that I couldn't work for medical reasons. This is a huuuuuge relief because it gives me an exit strategy (unlike, say, the war in Iraq).



I haven't made a final decision about returning to work, of course, and I won't do that for a couple of months or so. The idea will be staying in the back of my head, though.

To top off all of this awesome news, a pattern I bought last week arrived today! It's this one and I love it because of the square neckline and curved belt. I'm going to make a version with short sleeves and a straight skirt first and then possibly one with a fuller skirt. I can hardly wait!

More things to fit me

I don't think I've mentioned that I bought a bathing suit recently. Yep, I bought this one at Winners. It doesn't look quite like that on me because I'm shorter and wider than the model but I'm very happy with the way that it fits and every time I put it on, I want to keep wearing it. The skirted bottom doesn't look frumpy but gives a bit of coverage, which I like. I think I will bring the top front in just a bit so that I'm not quite as exposed up top.

I'm pretty well finished the major parts of sewing the first vintage pattern I altered and it fits really well. I even put the zipper in (and matched the waist seams!) The only thing I have left to do is the bias binding trim around the neck and sleeves, sew the buttonholes, and hem it - all of this I consider to be "the trim". And I didn't feel like doing this today, so I've started altering another pattern.

I'm working on this pattern, which is another (hopefully better) version of the Butterick Walk-away dress. Apparently the Walk-away dress was so popular that Butterick had to suspend production on all other patterns to meet demand - I don't know whether that's true, but that's what I've heard. I have to grade up the pattern and then alter it for me

Rainy movie Sunday

We saw Get Smart (the movie) this afternoon. It wasn't too bad, overall. It wasn't quite like the original tv series but there were definitely some funny bits in there. If you like comedies then you might like this one. I'm sort of watching Hackers as I'm writing this, and it appears to be a pretty funny movie. I didn't know that Penn was in it :) It makes computer tasks, memory, and processes look so cool.

My vintage pattern obsession appears to be running almost unchecked. I have bought some more patterns and hope to bid on another lot in the next few days. There comes a point where I start to wonder if I'm buying more patterns than I need ... especially if I add in all of the new patterns I have. There may come a day when I decide that I need to sell some of the patterns that I have. We'll see; there are only so many patterns I'll be able to sew.

I get to sew some more

Sorry there was no post yesterday - I had Pamidronate and it knocked me out at 7pm. I did wake up at 1am and watched Beneath the Planet of the Apes but when I went to bed afterward at 3am I stayed there until 1pm today. So I was tired.

I've received all of the vintage patterns I ordered, and the person who sent me the last two sent me one additional one. :) Someone on etsy also asked to trade patterns for earrings and I'm definitely not going to say no to that! I get three patterns and I am sending out two pairs of earrings.

Now I just need to get sewing. On Monday, after my doctor's appointments, I stopped by Fabricland and discovered that they were having a sale. So I bought the fabrics that I'd had my eye on... and I have patterns to go with them, too. I'm hoping to have some new stuff made before we go to Lexington, KY for the International Juggler's Association festival. So I have a deadline of sorts, too :)

Pattern grading fun

You know I've been buying vintage sewing patterns, right? I always have to adjust sewing patterns to fit me but these vintage patterns are almost never the right size even before adjustment. Most times, I can only find a pattern in one size anyways so I don't even try to find one that fits. Tha'ts because measurements were very different, back in the day; in particular, bust measurements were proportionally smaller than hip measurements (they're identical now) and waist measurements were proportionally bigger than they are now. Add to this the fact that every pattern company had different measurement systems and you can see how hard it would be to buy something vintage that came close to fitting.

So I end up having to grade the pattern pieces. Grading is easy if you already have at least two sizes of the same piece, because then you can just extend the pieces along the intersection points if you're only going up or down a size. Lately I've been working on that awesome bodice, and I'm having to grade it 8" up for my bust. That's a lot of change! I'm adding 2" to each of my bodice pieces and if I don't do it right, the design lines will be wrong.

The resource most vintage pattern-sellers point to is this one. It's not bad for one or two size grades. I tried its method with this pattern and then looked at what I had and said to myself, "how can I be increasing the bust by 8" and NOT be changing the length of the underarm seam?" I found a much better resource here - check out the quick reference guide! This one takes into account the fact that the length will change (and not just at the shoulder) and it grades at the shoulder as well.

Hopefully now I can get this stuff right. Yes, I know that in some ways it would be easier to take my measurements, draft a basic block including ease (I now know how to do that - and anyways, I know how much ease is included in this pattern), and do flat-pattern alterations to get what I want. But where's the fun in that? :)

Too many patterns, nothing to do

I was trying to figure out which pattern(s) I should work on today. To do that, I put all of the vintage patterns I've bought together and looked at them. I looked at the patterns, then over at my fabric, and back to my patterns. Sometimes I'd pick up a pattern and look at the back and then I'd put it down again. I just couldn't decide what I wanted to do. I know that I have a few more patterns that will be arriving soon and I was sad that I might have to wait until one of those arrived before I could play with the patterns.

So I went back upstairs and surfed the internet for a while. After a while I decided that I would take one of the dress patterns that I love and modify it so that it'll look good on me. I'll use the top of this pattern and put a straight skirt on it instead of this flared skirt:



Honestly, I'd love to make the dress as shown, but a skirt that gathers in to the waist just makes me look like a chubby kid. I don't have either the height or the willowy waist to carry off the skirt volume. Still, I love the top and I think that it would look awesome on me, so I'll just change the skirt and hope I come up with something good.

How much is too much bellydancing?

Four hours of bellydance in one day might be a bit too much! I did two workshops today and I'll tell you, my belly is a bit tired :) My undulations were pretty pathetic by the end of the afternoon. I learned a lot and enjoyed the workshops very much; I'm looking forward to the next class in both series.

This evening, Ian and I watched Diary of the Dead, a zombie movie by George Romero. It's one of those first-person video movies, so it has a couple of people with a camera filming what happens when suddenly the dead rise. There are some flaws with the plot (would all the people really disappear in a day or so?), and the acting wasn't always the best, but I liked that the ending was left unresolved. Yes, there are zombies, but we don't know what happens to our people. There was a bit of humour in the movie, too, especially with regard to the zombies being killed.

I was looking at patterns for sale this evening (this is something I do - surf the internet looking for patterns or fabric) and I came across this one:


What I love best about it is that it's really only two pieces, each cut on the fold. I love the way it looks as shown in the stripe. The back is vertically striped and the front diagonally striped. I like this pattern although it would be a pain to grade and alter for my height; it's also most likely unprinted, and I've never used an uncut, unprinted pattern before. I might also want to shorten the sleeves a bit. I'll think about bidding on it.

Me and my ego

I got the pattern grading adjustments done only to realize that I needed to grade only the bust up and not the waist. So I ended up having to take the waist back in, but I managed to do that while keeping the grainlines and design lines intact. Not bad. :)

As I was congratulating myself for figuring this out, I started on the skirt. The skirt as designed has two unpressed pleats/tucks in front that I wanted to turn into darts. You would think, with all my training, help from others (thanks, Mom!), research, and everything, I could do something like this. Don't forget that I was feeling pretty proud of myself... and here was this simple problem stumping me. For some reason I wanted to fold out the excess in the pleats and make them darts when the actual solution is to slash the pattern and overlap the correct amount (the darts will be shortened, of course).

I finished the pattern alterations feeling quite a bit more humble. :) Next up: cutting and sewing!

Coming down with something?

I had planned to get up around 10am today to get some pattern stuff done. Unfortunately, I didn't actually get up until 2pm and I felt icky when I did get up. My sinuses are full, my head hurts, lights are too bright and sounds too loud, and I feel really tired, light-headed, and sick. I suppose I could have allergies or a migraine or something, but I could also be coming down with a cold or flu or something instead. I hope it's only allergies. I've bought some sinus stuff, some advil liqui-gels in case it's a migraine, and some tylenol. One of those should help.

I'm working on the first vintage pattern - I'm able to grade the patterns up just fine, but I'm having trouble applying my height changes to the pattern. It has a kimono sleeve so the sleeve is cut in one with the bodice. Normally I take out 14mm at the half-way point of the armscye and 10mm out of the top of the sleeve cap (this change can be applied to the underarm seam if the sleeve cap is flat). Plus I need to move the shoulder point in by 1/2" - this matters because the bottom of the sleeve has buttons on it and the sleeve will be too long if I don't take the excess out of the shoulder.

So anyways, I'm not quite sure now to apply the above changes. I thought about taking out the horizontal 14mm and dropping the underarm by 4mm, but the shoulder change has me stumped. I think I can just take out the 1/2" on a line running from the top of the sleeve to the underarm seam. I'm not sure that this will give me the right results, though.

If you've done these kinds of pattern changes before or otherwise have an idea about how to make these changes, I'd love to hear about it. My thick head is having trouble figuring stuff out and it's getting overwhelmed easily by loud sounds or bright lights.

Patterns need fabric

I guess it's too soon to say that I'm ready to get up early every day. After the last few days of flurried activity on the bag, I crashed today and slept until almost 4pm. I was able to go to the gym this evening, at least, and I know that I'll be up early again tomorrow. I just couldn't do it today.

I've been looking at the vintage patterns I have and I'm looking forward to tracing them out and making them. I've already planned my first dress :) I've got a bunch of patterns coming in the mail, too - I've been compulsively checking the mailbox and walking away disappointed when the patterns aren't there.

I've also been looking at fabric on etsy.... I haven't bought any yet, but I suspect that I will eventually. As some of you know, I loooooove fabrics :) I've found that I have a bit of a weakness for Japanese textiles. I love these cute little robots, for example:



And this alphabet fabric (it's not Japanese, I don't think, but it's cool):



And this origami fabric (it is Japanese):



It's hard to resist the pull of these fabrics......

Done and done

I finished the bag and delivered it to its new owner! I was a little sad to see it go because I've been working on it so hard, especially for the last few days. I'm thrilled with the results, though! You can see pictures of it here.

The hardest part of making the bag was making sure that the pattern matched AND the measurements came out right. I found that the best thing to do was to hand-baste the critical seams together at the seamline, sew overtop the basting, and take the basting out. This also ensured that the seamlines were straight. I also used larger-than-usual seam allowances so that I could shift the pieces a little bit, if necessary.

For the next one, I need to remember that it always takes longer to finish the bag than I think it should. Once I had everything made, it took me two full days to finish and I thought it would take only a few hours. There's a big difference there :)

I'm very much looking forward to sewing for me starting tomorrow - I've been eying my patterns and fabrics longingly for quite a while.

BTW, we're watching The Andromeda Strain on A&E right now. I wish we had technology like they do in the miniseries - with the paper computers and the clear computer wall screens that users can touch to move or zoom in on. Cooooool.

The work never ends

The bag is almost done - I have to finish the last seam and make the shoulder pad. I could stay up late tonight but I'd rather be well-rested and do it tomorrow. It'll take less time.

I've been thinking a lot and I have decided that I'm going to go back to work in the fall, assuming that my scans next month come out fine. I've got a lot more energy and I'm finding myself less tired than I used to be, now that I'm mostly switched over to the Fentanyl. I figure that I would be easing into work anyway, but over the summer I'll practice getting up at a work-time (instead of between 10am and 2pm) and doing stuff. Like clean the house or do the dishes :)

Anyways, I'll make a final decision after I get my test results back at the end of June. I want to go back to work and the thought doesn't fill me with dread but a sort of excitement.

Sewing fun

Ian and I put up some shelves in my sewing room today. I'm thrilled! I'm going to use them to store the stuff that is currently in mountainous piles around my machines - like patterns, stuff I'm also working on, cutting things, extra pieces, and so on. We also put a light under the shelf above my cutting area and that will make things much, much easier when I'm working there. It can be hard to see otherwise. I'm looking forward to working there now :)

Unfortunately, my serger is behaving badly these days :( There's a thin needle-thing in the throat plate that I think is out of place. The lower looper thread is somehow putting additional tension on the outside straight stitch so that it skips and sometimes breaks. Once it breaks the threads get messed up. If I go slow and be careful and watch (and listen carefully - I can hear the thread doing something strange), I can use the serger. But once this bag is done, I'm going to take the serger in for service. I've had it for three years or so and it's never been serviced so it's past time.

I had my Pamidronate today and I used the emla cream and it made a HUGE difference!!! I had no pain when they accessed my port. Yay! I messed up, though; most of the port is underneath my scar (which is huge and not healed) and it's hard to access it if I'm lying flat, which I was. The nurse and I were talking and she cleaned the area to make it sterile when I put my finger on the port to show her how she could access it if I was sitting up a bit. I wasn't supposed to touch the area because I made it unsterile. Oooops. I won't do that again.

I'm feeling ok but a bit tired and so we took it easy tonight - except to put up the shelves and to tidy up the sewing room a tiny bit.

One way to spend a cold, rainy, long weekend

Since almost everything is closed tomorrow we did some errands today. I have my Pamidronate infusion on Tuesday and they recommended that I use EMLA cream so it doesn't hurt so much. Anyways, I picked that up today; it's available over the counter and it costs $50 (gulp!).

After that we wandered around Home Depot for a while. We're looking at restructuring my sewing room so that we can find things more easily and so that it's more organized. We got a couple of shelves and a 16"x60" frameless mirror that I've been looking for. I have a smaller one but it's not long enough or wide enough.

And of course I'm still sewing. I did finish the front panel of the messenger bag, which is good news. Now onto the rest of the bag so that I can sew, sew, sew for myself!

This is the bag that never ends

You know, I've been working on this messenger bag and I wish I could say that it's going smoothly, but I seem to be recutting and redoing quite a lot of pieces.

I'm working on the front panel right now which has a hidden zippered pocket, a bellows pocket, and a topstitched zippered pocket. I've recut the panel itself twice: the first because the fabric I'm using is an uneven houndstooth (like an uneven plaid) and my first attempt was upside-down. I recut it the second time because I had put the hidden zippered pocket in the seam allowance of the bag. Silly me.

I also had to redo the topstitched zippered pocket once. The way it's constructed is to open up a zipper and sew each side on opposite sides of the fabric. The first time I did this, I managed to flip one of the zipper sides so that the teeth were upside-down on one side. Oops.

Did I mention that I had to redo the bellows pocket flap as well? Yes, I mismatched the houndstooth. Sigh. At least it's a small piece.

These are all silly errors and I don't quite know why I'm making them. Fortunately, I'm getting the final pieces right and the front panel is looking good. I'll tell you, though, I'm looking forward to finishing the front panel and moving on to the lining compartments. I'm hoping that the rest of the bag will be smoooooth sailing once all the fiddly pockets are done.

Trolls under the bridge

Over on the side there in the links is a link to one of my favourite blogs: A Dress A Day. I read it just about every day; the author writes about dresses and accesories and sewing. She's a lexicographer as her "real job" and she's written some books about words. I love reading her writing and I love that blog. Her "Secret Lives of Dresses" stories are well worth reading and I urge any of you interested in clothing to read them - personally, I think the best ones start at about the fourth or fifth story. The links are on the right side of her blog. Go! Or at least open a window/tab to save the reading for later.

Anyways, some troll recently posted in the comments accusing the blogger of being a shill for companies - that she's just writing to sell stuff. Yes, she posts links to products that she likes, but she's not encouraging anyone to buy anything. I guess trolls like that are part and parcel of the internet, but I wish they weren't. It's great that we can all read her blog, but why would people go and be trolls anyway?

Putting my foot in my mouth

So here I am bragging about how my sewing is getting better and it turns out that I'm exaggerating a bit. I'm working on a dress now and I've got the sleeves in and something is wrong. They're supposed to be a little poufy, but they wound up looking like mutton legs. Part of the problem is that the shoulders are about an inch and a half too wide but that's not all of it. I think the sleeves are too poufy for me. Sigh. I'll have to take the sleeves out and recut both the shoulders and sleeves.

After I finish this dress, I'm not going to work on more dresses until my new (vintage) patterns arrive. I do need to work on the messenger bag, but I also want to try using these other patterns before I do anything else.

As for fixing pants that have worn through: duct tape is one solution. However, a better one would be to get some denim that matches the colour and shade of the jeans as possible and then darn them (or zigzag, or drop the feed-dogs and move the patched area around, on a machine) in place. The patch will be a little bit noticeable but not as noticeable as duct tape :)

Yellow tulips

The people who lived in our place before us had planted some kinds of flowers in our front patch. For the last couple of years the only thing that showed up were big green floppy leaves. This year the conditions were just right and for the first time, we have gorgeous yellow tulips growing there. What a nice way to start the summer!

I must be getting better at sewing because I don't have to rip things out or redo them much anymore. It takes a lot less time to make something if I don't have to sew each seam at least twice :) It has taken a long, long time to get to this point and there are certain things that I can almost guarantee that I'll have trouble with - like collars. But I'm getting better at those, too, and over time I hope to improve even more.

I know that I've been obsessed with sewing and dresses (50s dresses..... sigh) but believe it or not, I have had a few ideas for some jewelry. Yes, really :) I haven't been making much of that lately, as I think you know. I'm hoping to get back to that, a bit, because I'd like to get the designs out of my head and constructed. Not that I've photographed or listed the last couple of pairs I made, of course, but that doesn't matter. The point is to get stuff made. :)

Celebrating great news!

There is no recurrence in my breast. Yay!!!! The pathology report showed that the core biopsies were composes of skin and fat but not breast tissue and so there is no recurrence. This is a huge relief and is definitely something to celebrate :) . Yippeeee!!!

And to celebrate, I got a pattern ready and cut it out. I might have mentioned that I have a 50s dress fetish/obsession going on right now? Well, I adjusted and cut out a regular shirtdress with an a-line skirt and unpressed pleats. And side pockets, of course :) I hope that it doesn't take too long to sew up.

I've found all sorts of vintage pattern sources online and I'm feeding my fetish by looking at them. If you know me, you know that it's hard for me to resist buying items related to my current obsession..... so I've just ordered two vintage dress patterns. This one is almost identical to a dress that I sketched for me, and I just had to buy the pattern when I found it! This other one is adorable - look at the button detail on the sleeves that matches the front placket. I can hardly wait to get them and make them up :) I'll have to grade both of the patterns up a size or two but I'm pretty sure I can do that, and if I run into trouble there are resources on the web.

I'm also bidding on this other vintage shirtdress pattern; we'll see if I win it. Cute, isn't it? Can't you see me wearing this during the summer? This pattern I have to grade down which is a bit easier :)

Now all we have to do is figure out how to manage my lack of endurance. Monisa is right in that I sleep a crazy amount the day after doing activities. If I can't get all the sleep I'd like to that first day, it builds up until I sleep WAAAAYYYYY too much one day - like yesterday, where I slept the whole day, or that Saturday that I lost. Would I sleep less if I was in better shape? And how do I get in better shape if an hour of bellydancing exhausts me?

I see sewing in my future

It looks like the new messenger bag is going to be a go; the person is answering my replies, at least :) I'm happy about that, although I guess this means that I should have been sewing drum bags before. I'm ready to start sewing them tomorrow, though.

If this keeps up I'll start having nightmares about drowning in bags :)

I think that I'm able to decrease my oxycontin painkiller intake but I think that I may have tried to decrease the amount too quickly. I got woogly tonight, which is usually a sign of withdrawl. Sigh. I'll tell you, taking a lot of painkillers - even though I have to - is no fun. I don't like that I have both a physical tolerance and a physical addiction to the things. The doctors say to not worry about addiction in this case. At least I'm not craving more painkillers or any other drug, so I think that I'll be ok.